Throw a party, bring a bottle or two by Valentina Passalacqua and I will come. Not to focus on wine, but to enjoy how it amplifies whatever we are doing. First sniff - slightly rotten apricot and peach-flavoured Lipton ice tea. Second sniff - ascorbic acid and medicines. It's like coming to a hospital and doing a very long inhale to get your lungs full of the local odour. Fresh, not fascinating, but pleasant to drink.